In the spirit of honesty that should be more common between buyer and sellers, I am going to attempt to fully disclose any issues about the car. I would rather you know everything about the car than to have a disappointed buyer. I want the Trans Am to have a great home and a new lease on life.
Paint and Body
Overall – Fair. The Trans Am was painted in 1992 with Supreme Gold (all I could afford back then). I was just learning bodywork and didn’t do a very good job. The car didn’t sit outside much, but the paint just didn’t hold up. However, a repaint should not be very difficult because the car is basically straight. The car does not have the front spoilers or lower air dam. However, they can be purchased through www.dankoreproductions.com for $220 - DAN632KT-3P Also, the trunk lid will not stay up due to a broken spring.
Rust and Bondo– Minor. Both lower rear quarters show rust minor damage. Drivers door showing small bubble. Passenger floor panel has pinholes, but overall rust damage is minor. These cars are extremely bad about rust in the rear quarters, but patch panels can be purchased through www.yearone.com for $43 apiece – K392LH & K392RH. The Driver’s Door has a Bondo issue (I didn’t do it). So depending on your skill level, a replacement may be needed. Remember, 1975-1981 Firebird and T/A have the same doors, but Camaro doors are different.
Good Points – Not Much Damage. The Trans Am is relatively damage free. The 1979 Turbo Hood (for added clearance) has minor edge damage on the passenger front edge and a scratch on the bulge. I slipped while pulling the hood off and scraped it on the hood hinge. Also the extremely hard-to-find nose cone was media blasted before painting, not sanded. It was painted with a flexible primer and paint additive, so only minor prep work would be needed for a repaint. Autumn of last year, while moving the car from storage, it was involved in a minor accident. The radiator support and the passenger fender were damaged. I have already purchased the parts needed to replace them. They have been media blasted and are in primer. The used fender still needs some minor finish work.
Overall – Incomplete. The interior served its purpose as a racecar. It is missing most of the parts needed to make it a daily driver, such as carpet, radio, heater, AC, and Power Steering/Brakes. The dash is cracked and that is a common problem with these cars. However, I will include a rear seat and any other interior parts that I have.
Windows and Weather-stripping
Overall – Poor. The front windshield has a crack and needs to be replaced. $220 estimate from Binswanger Glass in Wichita Falls, TX. The Drivers Door Glass has an area of wear due to a screw head rubbing on it; just another reason to replace the Driver’s Door. All of the weather-stripping needs to be replaced, including the cat whiskers on the door windows. A complete kit can be purchased through www.1aauto.com for $205 – 1A123
Electrical and Lights
Overall – Good. The lights work including the Interior. The front turn signals are not installed due to the bumper removal and the transmission cooler installation. However, I will include the Turn Signal Indicators. Brackets will need to be fabricated and the transmission cooler moved before they will fit. The entire set of key switches need to be replaced. The ignition key switch will not lock, I cannot find the door keys anymore, and the trunk lock is missing completely. But, those parts are readily available at any auto parts store.
Charging – New. A new alternator was just installed. In the past the alternators have shown HIGH charging (16-18 VDC), then they go bad. I believe that a bad ground connection to the Battery in the trunk causes this. I would consider installing a separate ground wire from the battery to the engine or just a better grounding point. Also, new battery hold downs need to be fabricated for the trunk mounted battery (3/8” required by NHRA tech) and a cut-off switch (included) needs to be installed. This will make it NHRA legal for racing.
Engine and Transmission
Overall –Very Good. The 406cid was built by Dixon in Altus, OK. It runs great. It has never been past 6000rpm and made only about 20 passes at the track. The best time was an 8.16sec @ 90mph in the 1/8 mile, through the muffles and on DOT tires. However, many parts have been upgraded since then, but it never made it back to the track. I feel that it is a 7.9sec to 8.0sec car now (12.3 - 12.5 in the ¼ mile) after some tweaking. The Turbo400 shifts great and is very responsive.
Leaks – Minor. I noticed a small seep at the front of the oil pan. The timing cover seal was replaced and a harmonic balancer micro-sleeve was installed. However, it may be the front of oil pan. The transmission just had the gasket/filter/fluid changed this week. The speedometer cable needs an o-ring and maybe a rear seal.
Suspension, Brakes, Drivetrain and Rearend Overall – New. Most of these parts are new. I believe in safety first before appearance. Recently, I noticed an oil seep on the outer axle seals. These have gone dry and are now leaking. They are easy to repair, just make sure you pack the axle bearings with grease when you reinstall them. Also, the rearend is a 1969 Road Runner 8.3/4” rearend, so make sure you order the correct parts.
Suggestions. To make the more consistent, a set of sub-frame connectors would be an improvement. For safety, a 6-point roll bar or cage, a good set of seat belts, and a fire extinguisher are a must. I would add a vent tube with a rollover valve to the fuel cell. I would also run a fuel return line from the fuel cell to the regulator.